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Note: These tips are designed to give you a good idea on things to look for when shopping for a used Airstream or Argosy travel trailer. I tried my best to come up with a comprehensive list based on my years of experience with RVs, but these tips are not to be considered a conclusive nor definitive inspection guide. You are taking a risk whenever buying anything used and it is impossible to be certain you have uncovered all problems. Caveat Emptor-- Let the buyer beware. Exterior: Check awning for proper operation and appearance. Check exterior doors for proper operation. Note whether vent covers are in place and in good condition. Check TV antenna for proper operation. Look for corrosion, especially in the belly pan and around the banana skins (panels that curve under the unit). If clearcoat peeling is detected understand that this can be resolved by removing the clearcoat and reapplying it. However, this can be a costly and labor intensive process. Check for rear end sag. This is a problem primarily affecting 70s model units that have a rear bath. Stand on the rear bumper and bounce up and down. Have someone else notice whether the unit's shell moves in concert with the chassis. If it doesn't then you need to affect a repair to the frame members. Contact an Airstream dealer for a repair kit and further details. Axles and tires: Check the tires for checking, bubbles in the sidewalls and treadwear. Often trailer tires will disintegrate at the sidewalls (due to UV damage) before the tread will wear out. Check the backs of the tires also. Crawl underneath the trailer and look at the torsion arms that attach the axles to the frame members. It is presumed that your trailer is unladen (empty). The torsion arms should show a downward angle from the frame to the axle. If the torsion arm is horizontal or shows a negative or upward angle they are worn out and need replacing. If the unit was made prior to 1969 and it appears the axles are original you should plan to replace them anyway. Axle breakage is possible with these model, as noted by Steve of vintageairstream.com. Visually inspect electric brake wiring for condition and placement. Interior: Check all cabinets, tambour doors and closets for proper operation. As best as you can, check the fridge's exhaust chimney for breakage. Check the roof vents for proper operation. Water lines: Hook up city water to the inlet and let the unit sit for an hour or more. Inspect throughout the interior of the unit for leaks, including under the cabinets. If you cannot hook up water, close all faucets and use a winterizing plug on the city water inlet to blow about 50 lbs. of air into the lines, let this sit for an hour and then slowly open a faucet. If air or air/water blasts out at a good pressure the water lines could be considered leak-free . Holding tanks: Fill the black tank with water and the gray tank with water. Wait about 30 mins and note whether there are any drips coming from underneath the unit. Check the holding tank valves to see whether they open properly and close without leakage. Fresh water tank and water pump: Fill the fresh water with water. Turn the water pump on and leave it on. Turn on each faucet and the shower head breifly and note whether there is adequate pressure. Check the toilet to see that it will flush and check the spray head attached to the toilet for proper flow. Inspect the area around the faucets, toilet, fresh water tank and underneath the unit for leaks. LP Gas: Turn on the valve at the lp gas tank. If the tank is empty the regulator should show red in the clear window. Turn on a burner on the stovetop and leave it on. Turn on the hot water faucet to fill the hot water tank. In case the faucets are mixed up turn the cold water on too breifly. Light the hot water heater. If it fires up you are probably ok to shut it off. Next, ensure the gas cock for the fridge is turned on and get the fridge going on lp gas. It will take a long time for the fridge to cool down. However, you may be able to feel the fins in the back after 15 mins or so and detect coolness to note whether this is working. It's said that the gas furnace should not be used nor tested until you have it inspected by a qualified technician so, if you choose to inspect the gas furnace you do so at the risk of fire or explosion. If any part of the furnace is missing (ie, the outside vent cover) do not attempt to use the furnace until this is fixed. Properly turn off the gas to each appliance and turn the gas off at the lp tank. AC Electrical: Inspect the power cable for damage or wear. Plug the unit into shore power. You may need a 20amp adapter to allow you to plug the 30amp cord into a regular ac outlet. Using a multi-meter (or other device) check each outlet for proper current and grounding. Test the fridge on ac power. Again, this will take a long time to cool down. Note by feel what the temperature of the fins are and retest by feel in about 15 minutes to see whether they are cooler. Check each of the interior lights for proper operation. Using a multi-meter (or other device) check the output of the converter (Univolt) for proper operation. You may need to turn on one or more inside lights to cause a battery drain to get the converter to apply charging power to the battery. If you have sufficient juice from shore power you may be able to run the air conditioner and check it. You should at least be able to get the fan to run. Unplug shore power. DC Electrical: Check each of the interior lights for proper operation. Check the fridge for dc operation (if a 3-way fridge). Again, this will take a long time to cool down. Note by feel what the temperature of the fins are and retest by feel in about 15 minutes to see whether they are cooler. If you haven't already done so, verify that the water pump will work on DC power. Exterior leaks: Spray water liberally around windows, air conditioner and vents. Inspect the floor and interior walls for leaks. Rust: Inspect the tongue A-frame for major rusting. Remove one or more access doors under the unit and inspect the frame members at the rear of the unit for major rusting. "Weeping" rust on the aluminum exterior from steel screws and other parts can likely be polished out. Exterior lights: Inspect the unit's pigtail for damage or wear and hook up the unit's pigtail to your tow vehicles light socket. Turn on your headlights and check brake lights, turn signal, marker lights and license plate light. Brakes: Properly hook up your tow vehicle to the unit. Unplug the unit's pigtail from your light socket. Pull the trailer's breakaway switch cable to remove the pin from the brakeaway switch housing. Do not leave the pin pulled for more than a few minutes. Pull forward and see whether the trailer's brakes engage by themselves. Put the pin back in. Pull forward and actuate your tow vehicles brake controller manually to see whether the trailer brakes properly engage. Things to take with you: Air tank for testing water lines if no water is available Winterizing plug for water line if no water is available latex gloves for testing holding tank inspection mirror to see in hard to reach areas tow vehicle equipped with proper hitch and ball, brake controller and light socket Multi-meter or other electrical circuit tester flashlight work clothes so you can crawl under the trailer |