My next mile stone was to get the &#@%& TB out of the car with out wrecking the alignment of the outer rocker/door/car. I had installed the doors back on the car (I bought it w/o them installed) and used them for a gauge to see if I was wrecking my project. You can see a floor jack through the hole in the floor I used to support the center support (note, if you have a coupe or fastback, you don't have one of these. a block of wood by the tunnel would be okay here if you are paranoid).
Here is a closer shot of the front toe area/TB area with it removed to the frame extension. Center right, you can see a transmission bracket and a tunnel support that I intentionally left attacked to the original metal. I hate to measure too many things as my project is rather lengthy. No short cuts mind you but the more original metal you leave on your car, the better. Note the rough cut of the driver toe pan at the floor/frame extension-that was made prior to figuring out how to cut with the cut off saw then separate with the air hammer. You can see the front suspension (I put it back on the car for the restoration even though it will be replaced later), a wheel and a jack stand through the hole here.
I'd rather eat dirt than to try to get another one of these inner rockers out from between here. Take your time and don't bend up the outer rocker or rear TB here. Mine was good here so I didn't even have to remove the top (TB). It took me longer to get this part out than it took me to remove the rest of the inner rocker. Be sure to remove all the rust, its like having a few pennies in your pocket that rub together to make more (eating up the silver). This is a shot of the rear TB where it meets the inner rocker. Note again where the rust is, right where the make shift floor pans butted up to them.
This is a Driver side only shot. Note there is a lot of stuff under the floor. I recommend not cutting out the seat belt holes/bolts and look out for gas and brake lines as well as other brackets and such. It is easier to leave them on the car rather than have to come back and weld them back on later as I sure couldn't tell you where they go exactly. I've used about 15 drill bits and at least two grinding disc by this stage in the project.
I have ground the rust off to the metal and went back over with a weld through primer that 3M makes (about $25/can-wear gloves, it is nasty-store can upside down or it wont come out next use).