Ikarus ECO-8, Purchased 4/12/01 from Hobby-Lobby

 

 

 

MY ECO

 

My ECO is a really great performer.  I whole-heartedly recommend one to any heli enthusiast.  NOT for the beginner, however.

 

They can do many of the 3D-aerobatic maneuvers that nitro heli’s do, but much quieter.

 

A hot brushless motor and 8-cells will really impress any nitro heli purist.

 

Do I recommend one?  That is a big YES!  The heli is designed to be a great performer, and it is.  Nitro heli flyers may not like it’s seemingly fragile structure, but it is designed to get long battery life.  Without the surplus power of an internal combustion engine, the weight must be cut to minimum.  Just treat the ECO right, and she will fly circles around the nitro helis.  Well, that is, while the pilots who own them are off to the hobby shop to buy more expensive fuel!

 

 

    This is Me flying circuits over Daytona Beach, FL; April 2001

 

Specs:

Flight Time: 8-min hover, 6-min aerobatics

            (2400 mAh 7-cell)

Gearing: 13 tooth pinion

Weight: 1.3 lbs

Head speed > 1350 rpm

 

Equipment:

3x Hitec HS-85bb for 120 deg. CCPM

1x Hitec HS-81 for tail

                (the 81 is lighter, cheaper, and faster than the 85’s, but no BB’s)

Futaba Gy240 gyro (HH)

FMA Direct 8-channel micro RX

Motor: HACKER B40-11L Brushless

Controller: Kontronik SML 40-12-6 (40 AMP, with governor mode)

 

Parts Upgrades:

Aluminum Swash Plate

Boom Mount Tail Servo

Aluminum tail pitch slider

Extra Wide Landing gear

Hardened main, tail, and feathering shafts

GFK 470mm blades (symmetrical)

Autorotation Clutch/Gear

Carbon Flybar

Carbon boom supports/horiz. Stab.

 

Modifications:

 

--Custom-Made G-10 3D stabs

                    

 

--Symmetrical pitch modification

 

            Get a 24 degree pitch window from the STOCK head

 

--A.R. bearing mod.

            Use JB Weld to PERMANENTLY fix the slipping

 

--Dome Plate stabilizer Mod.

            I just mounted an extra boom clamp between the frames just behind the motor.

            I did do the one where I placed links on the left and right going from the plate to the skids, but they just bend in a

                        light crashes.  The method with the boom clamp is just as good and lower-profile.